Prolonged exposure to sun, particularly ultraviolet (UV) radiation, is a significant contributor to extrinsic skin aging, known as photoaging. This process manifests as dryness, wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and hyperpigmentation, resulting from structural changes in cellular components and the extracellular matrix (ECM). Researches in a lastest study evaluated a novel formulation combining potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and reparative ingredients, developed to counteract key mechanisms of photodamage such as oxidative stress, inflammation, and ECM degradation.
Methods
The efficacy of the formulation was assessed through a combination of in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies. In vitro, the antioxidant capacity of the product was measured using the DFFDA assay. For the ex vivo studies, human skin explant cultures were exposed to UV-Vis irradiation to mimic photoaging. The product’s impact on inflammatory markers, cellular damage, and collagen levels were evaluated. The in vivo studies involved 20 volunteers with sensitive and photoaged skin who used the product for 56 days, with biometric measurements and dermatological evaluations.
Key Findings
● Antioxidant Capacity: The formulation demonstrated a strong antioxidant capacity, inhibiting 60% of DFFDA oxidation at a 0.1% concentration, reaching 100% at 10% concentration. This is comparable to the antioxidant potential of ascorbic acid.
● Anti-inflammatory Effects: The topical application of the product significantly reduced levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and IL-8 in UV-irradiated skin explants.
● Cellular Protection: The formulation reduced lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) leakage, indicating a protective effect against UV-induced damage to cells.
● Collagen Restoration: The product effectively restored collagen levels in UV-irradiated skin explants, counteracting the loss caused by photodamage.
● Improved Hydration and Barrier Function: In vivo, the product improved skin hydration by up to 46% within the first 30 minutes and sustained improvements with 31% after 56 days, while also reducing transepidermal water loss by 20%.
● Enhanced Luminosity and Reduced Hyperpigmentation: The formulation increased skin luminosity by 70% and reduced hyperpigmented spots by 14%.
● Enhanced Skin Firmness and Elasticity: The formulation enhanced skin firmness and elasticity by 30%.
● Reduced Wrinkles: The product reduced wrinkle volume by up to 53% and wrinkle density by up to 19%.
● Dermatological and Subjective Evaluation: No adverse reactions were observed, and volunteers reported significant improvements in skin hydration, softness, flexibility, and overall comfort.
The novelty of this research lies in the comprehensive approach using OxIR PhotoRescue Technology, utilizes antioxidants such as encapsulated beta-carotene, an anti-inflammatory agent that mimics hydrocortisone, and plant-derived extracts that have regenerative effects. This formulation’s potential to repair existing sun damage is significant, as it not only improves skin appearance but also restores its functionality. Future implications of this work include developing more targeted and effective skincare solutions that combat the long-term effects of sun exposure while promoting overall skin health. Further long-term clinical trials with a larger sample size will also help further validate the results.
Link to the study: https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/11/6/224
