Formulation and Evaluation of Facial Serum Containing Sacha Inchi Oil ( Plukenetia volubilis L.) from Indonesia as an Anti-Aging: Stability, In Vitro, and Skin Irritation Assessments 

The study addresses the challenge of skin aging, a complex process influenced by factors like UV radiation, pollution, and free radicals, which lead to oxidative stress and damage to skin structures. This damage results in reduced skin elasticity and wrinkle formation. There is a growing need for safe and effective anti-aging strategies. Natural extracts, such as Sacha inchi oil (SIO), have become a focus due to their bioactive compounds and minimal side effects. SIO, which is rich in antioxidants and omega fatty acids, has shown potential as an anti-aging ingredient. The research aimed to evaluate the stability, in vitro anti-aging activity, and skin compatibility of a facial serum containing SIO, in order to broaden its application in the cosmetic industry. 

Methods 

The research involved formulating a facial serum using SIO as the primary active component. The serum underwent accelerated stability testing for three months under controlled conditions. In vitro anti-aging activity was assessed by measuring the inhibition of neutrophil elastase and collagenase. Skin irritation was evaluated through human patch testing on 20 volunteers. Statistical analysis was also performed. 

Key Findings: 

● Metalloproteinase Activity: 

○ The serum formulations inhibited neutrophil elastase activity, with the highest inhibition at 71.96% for the 10% SIO formula, compared to 69.16% for the positive control (retinoids). 

○ Collagenase inhibition also increased with higher SIO concentrations, reaching 66.67% for the 10% formula, which was higher than the 55.55% inhibition of the retinoids. 

● Irritation: Skin irritation tests on 20 female participants showed no signs of irritation, with a primary irritation index (PII) of 09. This indicates excellent skin compatibility of the SIO facial serum. 

The serum’s ability to inhibit neutrophil elastase and collagenase activity and its non-irritating nature suggest that SIO is viable for cosmetic use. This study establishes a foundation for incorporating SIO into cosmetic products, ensuring regulatory compliance, and enhancing cosmetic science for the benefit of society. Future directions could explore long-term clinical trials and the combination of SIO with other bioactive compounds in skincare products. 

Link to the study: https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/11/6/226