The increasing demand for natural and sustainable ingredients in cosmetics has driven research toward medicinal plants. Traditional medicinal plants are being reconsidered as potential solutions for aging-related skin issues, as aging causes a reduction in collagen and elastin fibers, leading to wrinkles and reduced skin elasticity. Zanthoxylum piperitum (L.) DC., also known as Japanese pepper, has been traditionally used in East Asia for its culinary, medicinal, and cosmetic properties. Recent studies suggest its potential in addressing aging-related skin modifications due to its skin-soothing, anti-wrinkle, and photoprotective effects. This has led to the exploration of biotechnological phytocomplexes from Z. piperitum as a sustainable alternative for skin health.
Methods
A biotechnological Z. piperitum phytocomplex (ZPP) was produced using stable plant cell cultures. Human fibroblasts were treated with varying concentrations of ZPP to assess cellular viability, collagen metabolism, and ECM-related enzyme activities under normal and cell stress conditions. In vivo assessments were performed on female volunteers over six weeks, measuring skin hydration, elasticity, and roughness. Statistical analyses, including ANOVA and Wilcoxon’s signed-rank test, were used to evaluate the data.
Key Findings
•Cell Viability and Protection: ZPP was found to be non-cytotoxic to human fibroblasts at all tested concentrations. It also protected fibroblasts from hyperosmotic stress, enhancing cellular resilience.
•Collagen Synthesis and ECM Modulation: ZPP stimulated pro-collagen I synthesis and upregulated lysyl oxidase (LOX) protein levels, which is critical for collagen cross-linking and ECM stability. It also showed protective effects under oxidative/inflammatory conditions and prevented a decrease in LOX levels under immunosuppressive conditions.
•Enzyme Activity: ZPP selectively inhibited collagenase activity, attenuating collagen breakdown. However, it exhibited only modest antioxidant activity.
•In Vivo Improvement: Topical application of ZPP improved skin hydration, elasticity, and reduced roughness in female volunteers.
This research introduces a novel biotechnological Z. piperitum phytocomplex (ZPP) as a promising ingredient for cosmetic formulations. Its ability to enhance collagen synthesis, modulate ECM stabilization, and improve skin elasticity highlights its potential in anti-aging and skin-protective products. The use of plant cell culture for ZPP production offers a sustainable and consistent source of active compounds, overcoming the limitations of traditional plant extracts. Future studies should explore the long-term effects of ZPP and optimize its formulation to maximize its benefits for skin health.
Link to the study: https://www.mdpi.com/1999-4923/17/1/138
