The skin, serving as the primary barrier against environmental stressors, is subject to two main types of aging: intrinsic (natural) and extrinsic (photoaging). Extrinsic aging, caused by factors like pollution and UV light, accelerates skin damage by increasing reactive oxygen species (ROS). To counter this, phytochemicals have been considered as a potential solution, due to their ability to mitigate skin aging by scavenging free radicals, modulating enzymatic pathways, and promoting skin structure. Plant-based phytochemicals can improve skin elasticity, reduce hyperpigmentation, prevent the breakdown of skin proteins, and support wound healing, making them valuable components for skincare and treatments. This review explores the multifaceted roles of phytochemicals in maintaining and improving skin health, highlighting their mechanisms of action and potential in skin anti-aging innovations.
Key Points by Section
• Polyphenols:
◦ Commonly used in traditional medicine for chronic skin diseases, including skin cancer, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis.
◦ Effective in promoting wound healing and providing anti-inflammatory benefits when applied topically.
◦ Neutralize free radicals, especially ROS, through mechanisms like single electron transfer and metal chelation.
◦ Inhibit enzymes (e.g., collagenase, tyrosinase) crucial for maintaining skin health and combating aging.
◦ Protocatechuic acid increases type I collagen production and inhibits UVA-induced MMP-1 expression.
◦ Green tea catechins protect against skin damage and aging, with epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) showing protective effects against UVB-induced damage.
• Carotenoids:
◦Offer benefits including anti-aging effects, UV protection, and enhanced hydration and elasticity.
◦Astaxanthin, combined with sunscreen, can effectively suppress sunburn cells and mitigate collagen fiber reduction in UVB-exposed skin.
◦Fucoxanthin prevents UVA-induced damage by regulating the synthesis of NMF, desquamation, and ceramide composition in the epidermis and inhibiting collagen degradation and inflammation in the dermis.
◦Lutein and zeaxanthin, along with rosemary, protect UV-irradiated skin from dehydration.
◦Z-isomers of lutein and fucoxanthin have greater UV-A- and UV-B-blocking abilities than their all-E-isomers.
•Vitamins:
◦Vitamin C promotes collagen synthesis and helps defend against UV-induced damage.
◦Vitamin B3 is crucial for synthesizing nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+), key for cellular energy production and defense mechanisms.
◦Vitamin A enhances collagen production, inhibits MMPs, reduces oxidative stress, and influences gene expression.
◦Ascorbic acid, delivered via sonophoresis and microneedling, reduces wrinkles and boosts skin elasticity.
◦A topical serum combining vitamins C and E with palmitoyl tripeptide-38 improves skin appearance.
•Essential Fatty Acids:
◦Omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids are essential for preserving the skin barrier and possess anti-inflammatory properties.
◦Omega-3 PUFAs mitigate age-related pathological alterations, maintain organ function, and decelerate the aging process.
◦EPA enhances the protective benefits of cannabidiol by diminishing the release of inflammatory mediators.
◦Walnut and tamarind seed oils encapsulated in liposomal cream formulation are potent against aging.
•Other Phytochemicals (Saponins and Alkaloids):
◦Ginsenosides restore cellular health, protect against UV-induced damage, and reduce senescence markers.
◦Alkaloids, including berberine and piperine, offer protective effects by reducing oxidative stress and improving cell viability.
◦Higenamine reduces MMP-1 expression and decreases oxidative stress-related kinase phosphorylation.
◦Piperine demonstrates photoprotection against UV-B-induced cytotoxicity in keratinocytes.
This review highlights that plant-based phytochemicals represent a promising avenue for anti-aging skincare due to their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and collagen-boosting properties. The innovative treatments involving these compounds address the visible signs of aging and promote overall skin health, offering safer, more effective solutions by harnessing the natural properties of botanical extracts. Future research should focus on improving the stability, skin penetration, and bioavailability of phytochemicals through nanotechnology, encapsulation methods, and formulation strategies.
Link to the study: The state of the art in anti-aging: plant-based phytochemicals for skin care | Immunity & Ageing | Full Text
