Skin aging is a complex process influenced by intrinsic factors like genetics and hormonal changes, and extrinsic factors like UV radiation and pollution. These factors lead to cumulative damage at the cellular and molecular levels, resulting in wrinkles, loss of elasticity, dehydration, and pigmentation irregularities. The cosmeceutical industry is in search of effective strategies to mitigate these effects, with natural compounds emerging as a promising avenue for intervention. Macroalgae, including Caulerpa prolifera, have gained attention due to their reported antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and matrix-protective properties, as well as their low cytotoxicity and reduced allergen content compared to synthetic alternatives. Despite C. prolifera’s potential, it remains largely underexplored for its cosmeceutical applications. This study bridges this gap by comprehensively assessing the phytochemical composition of C. prolifera, focusing on its lipophilic profile and key bioactive compounds, and evaluating its anti-aging potential.
Methods:
Caulerpa prolifera was collected, dried, and sequentially extracted using dichloromethane, acetone, and ethanol. The resulting extracts were then fractionated using liquid-liquid extraction and column chromatography. GC-MS analysis was performed to identify the chemical composition of the extracts and fractions. The antioxidant and anti-aging activities were assessed through DPPH and ABTS assays, as well as enzyme inhibition assays targeting tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase.
Key Findings:
Here’s a section-wise breakdown of the key findings from the study.
•Extract Composition and Preparation:
◦Sequential extraction of C. prolifera with different solvents yielded varying amounts of extracts, with dichloromethane (CP1) resulting in the highest yield. This suggests that C. prolifera biomass contains a higher amount of less polar compounds.
•Antioxidant and Enzyme Inhibition Activities of Extracts:
◦CP1 exhibited moderate tyrosinase inhibitory effects. CP3 displayed the highest DPPH scavenging activity.
◦CP1 inhibited 86.4% of tyrosinase activity at 250 µg/mL, with an IC50 of 31.3 ± 0.37 µg/mL.
◦CP2 was the most active extract regarding collagenase inhibition (44.1%), followed by CP3 (25.3%) and CP1 (12.3%).
•GC-MS Analysis of Dichloromethane Extract (CP1):
◦GC-MS analysis of CP1 revealed 22 different compounds, dominated by palmitic acid (23.9%) and di-(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) (37.9%).
◦A significant portion (49.73%) corresponded to fatty acids, with saturated fatty acids representing the largest portion (28.67%).
◦Unsaturated fatty acids accounted for 21.06% of the total identified compounds, with linoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, and α-linolenic acid being the most abundant.
◦Diterpenes like neophytadiene and phytol were also identified.
◦β-sitosterol, a plant sterol, was found in the CP1 extract.
◦Di-(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) was identified as the major compound in CP1.
•Fractionation and Activity Analysis:
◦Liquid-liquid fractionation of CP1 resulted in three fractions: CP1.1 (hexane), CP1.2 (ethyl acetate), and CP1.3 (aqueous).
◦CP1.2 showcased the most robust antioxidant activity.
◦CP1.2 also showed tyrosinase inhibition, with a slightly lower IC50 value compared to CP1.
◦Subfraction CP1.2.5 exhibited higher activity in elastase and collagenase inhibition compared to the original extract (CP1) and fraction CP1.2.
◦Chemical analysis of subfraction CP1.2.8 showed that it comprised solely di-(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate14.
•GC-MS Analysis of Fractions CP1.2 and CP1.2.5:
◦A significant reduction in the proportion of phthalate and a decreasing complexity in the chemical composition was observed.
◦The enhanced relative amount of 1-octadecanol was concomitant with improved inhibitory activity against elastase and collagenase.
◦Variations in collagenase and elastase inhibitory activity between CP1, CP1.2, and CP1.2.5 were concomitant with the variation in the proportion of compounds like neophytadiene and myristic acid.
This study provides a comprehensive phytochemical assessment of Caulerpa prolifera, highlighting its potential as a source of cosmeceutical ingredients. The identification of bioactive compounds, particularly fatty acids, diterpenes, and sterols, supports its potential in anti-aging applications. The most novel aspect of this research was the identification of the specific compounds, such as 1-octadecanol, that contribute to elastase and collagenase inhibition, activities that had not been previously reported in the Caulerpa genus. The study also showed the presence of di-(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP), necessitating caution and further research into its biosynthesis or bioaccumulation mechanisms. Further fractionation of the extract allowed for the isolation of DEHP, while other subfractions exhibited improved bioactivity levels. Future research should focus on in vivo studies to confirm the cosmeceutical benefits and to optimize extraction and fractionation methods to maximize the yield of desired compounds while minimizing the presence of undesirable ones.
Link to the study: https://www.mdpi.com/1660-3397/23/2/83
