Acne vulgaris is a prevalent multifactorial dermatological condition characterized by hyperkeratinization of sebaceous follicles, often leading to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Acne imposes substantial social, psychological, and physical burdens on affected individuals. The complex pathophysiology of acne, involving excessive sebum production, inflammation, and the role of Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes), necessitates multi-targeted therapeutic approaches. Conventional treatments often target single aspects of acne and PIH . Therefore, the investigation of topical products that simultaneously address multiple pathogenic factors, such as retinol for desquamation, niacinamide and ceramides for anti-inflammatory effects and skin barrier repair, and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate for its anti-inflammatory properties, presents a promising avenue for comprehensive acne and PIH management. This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy of a product containing this combination of ingredients in Chinese women with acne.
Methods
This 4-week study enrolled 43 Chinese women with acne, including those with self-reported sensitive skin. Participants applied a product containing 0.06% retinol, 2% niacinamide, 1% dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, and ceramides (ceramide EOP, ceramide NP, ceramide AP) daily. Clinical assessments of acne lesion counts, instrumental assessments of skin gloss, and photo tracking using VISIA-CR and Primos CR systems were conducted at baseline, week 2, and week 4 to evaluate the effects on acne-related indicators such as lesion counts, skin redness (a*), skin brightness (ITA◦), sebum spots, and targeted pigmentation. Adverse reactions were also monitored. Statistical analysis was performed using paired t-tests or Wilcoxon signed-rank tests with a significance level of α = 0.05.
Key Findings
•Significant reductions were observed in both inflammatory (papules and total inflammatory lesions) and non-inflammatory (open and closed comedones, total non-inflammatory lesions) acne lesion counts after 4 weeks of product use.
•There was a significant decreasein the skin area (%) covered by sebum spots.
•A significant increase was noted in skin brightness (ITA◦) and skin gloss.
•Quantitative analysis revealed a statistically significant reduction in nasal comedones and the volume of targeted raised inflammatory lesions throughout the treatment period.
•The product demonstrated a marked improvement in sebum spot distribution, with a significant reduction in the percentage of skin area covered by sebum spots.
•No adverse events occurred during the study.
This study demonstrates that the daily application of a product containing retinol, niacinamide, ceramides, and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate is effective in improving acne-related symptoms and alleviating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in Chinese women. The novelty of this research lies in its evaluation of a combination topical product targeting multiple aspects of acne pathophysiology and its sequelae simultaneously, showing significant improvements across various clinical and instrumental assessments. The findings suggest that such multi-ingredient formulations have the potential to meet the dual needs of acne treatment and skin brightening. Future research could explore the synergistic mechanisms of these ingredients through in vitro studies and expand the participant demographics to include diverse ethnicities, skin types, and genders to enhance the generalizability of these findings. Longer-term studies are also warranted to assess the long-term safety and efficacy of this product.
Link to the study: https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/12/2/69
