The increasing awareness of sun damage and the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin underscore the need for effective and safe sun protection solutions. While commercial sunscreens provide crucial protection, there is a growing interest in natural ingredients that can either serve as alternatives or enhance existing formulations. Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum L.), an ancient medicinal plant widely used across cultures, has shown potential in various applications, including medicinal and cosmetic fields. Its use in the cosmetics industry, particularly components utilized in sunscreen formulations to protect against UV radiation, has been noted. However, the specific UV protection properties of fenugreek water, especially when combined with sunscreen creams, have remained largely unexplored. Addressing this research gap could lead to new opportunities for developing effective and potentially more natural sunscreen protection solutions.
Methods
Fenugreek water was prepared by soaking dried and UV-irradiated fenugreek seeds in distilled water at room temperature for 1, 2, and 3 days, then filtered. Sunscreen cream was dissolved in distilled water and subjected to sonication and filtration. Mixtures of the sunscreen solution and fenugreek water were prepared and tested for UV absorption using a UV-Vis spectrophotometer at various contact times. Antioxidant activity was assessed using the DPPH assay, and the chemical composition and pH of fenugreek water samples from different soaking days were also analyzed.
Key Findings
Based on the optical and green catalytic properties specifically relevant to skincare, the key findings are:
•Fenugreek water itself exhibits significantly higher UV light absorbance compared to a standard sunscreen cream solution, suggesting its potential for UV protection.
•When fenugreek water is mixed with a pure cream solution, increasing the concentration of fenugreek water leads to a rise in UV light absorbance, indicating that fenugreek water enhances the sunscreen cream’s ability to block UV radiation, particularly in the ultraviolet region.
•The enhanced UV absorption due to fenugreek water is specific to UV light and does not significantly increase absorbance in the visible light region.
•The UV absorption of the mixture increases with longer contact times between fenugreek water and the sunscreen cream solution, suggesting that the UV-protective properties become more effective over time, eventually plateauing.
•Fenugreek water improves both UVA (measured at 357 nm) and UVB (measured at 282 nm) protection when combined with cream, showing percentages of 56.08% (after 18 h) and 87.07% (after 5 min to 18 h) respectively, compared to 8.61% and 29.76% for pure cream. Pure fenugreek water showed 100% protection in these measurements.
•The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) values increase significantly when fenugreek water is combined with cream, indicating enhanced UV protection. The SPF values continue to rise over time when combined, with the highest values observed after 18 hours, suggesting a prolonged stabilization effect.
•Fenugreek water exhibits antioxidant activity, which peaks on day 2 of soaking. Antioxidants like those found in fenugreek water can help prevent lipid peroxidation, a process relevant to maintaining skin health and the stability of cosmetic products.
•FTIR analysis revealed that prolonged soaking of fenugreek seeds leads to the transfer of more organic compounds into the water and intensifies colloid formation. This accumulation of organic compounds suggests an increase in beneficial compounds for skin health over time.
•The pH of fenugreek water samples remained basic, ranging from 8.20 to 9.00 across different soaking days and decreasing slightly with increasing temperature. Understanding this pH range is important for future formulations in cosmetic applications.
This study highlights the significant potential of fenugreek water in topical skincare applications, particularly as a natural UV-protecting agent and antioxidant. The research demonstrates that fenugreek water not only possesses inherent UV absorption capabilities but also enhances the effectiveness and stability of commercial sunscreen creams. The observed increase in SPF values and UV protection percentages when combined with cream, along with the enhanced effect over time, underscores its promise as an ingredient for prolonged sun protection. Furthermore, the antioxidant activity, peaking on day 2, adds another beneficial property relevant to skin health and cosmetic product stability. The novelty of this research lies in using an optical-based approach to assess these properties. The future implications are significant for the development of enhanced, eco-friendly, and bioactive sunscreen formulations and potentially other skincare products, leveraging fenugreek water’s natural properties for improved performance and protection against UV damage. However, longer-term studies are needed to fully assess stability and effectiveness in various formulations.
Link to the study: https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-025-92953-2
