In Vitro Evaluation of Traditional Botanical Extracts for Periorbital Aging

Signs of aging are often first visible around the eyes, manifesting as dark circles, puffiness, and crow’s feet due to thinning skin, oxidative stress, and compromised microcirculation. Traditional rejuvenation treatments like surgery and injectables are effective but invasive, prompting interest in safer, non-invasive alternatives. Inspired by long-standing traditional medicinal practices, this study explores the topical application of Phellinus linteus (a medicinal mushroom) and Angelica polymorpha sinensis (Dong Quai root), both known for their bioactive constituents and healing properties. The combination of these botanicals, marketed as ANGEL-EYE EFX®, was investigated for its potential to strengthen the periorbital skin structure by targeting molecular factors associated with aging.

Methods

Extracts were prepared using a water/glycerin method and characterized using high-performance liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry (HPLC/QTOF-MS). In vitro studies were conducted on human epidermal keratinocytes and 3D skin models to assess genomic and proteomic responses. Protein expression relevant to skin structure, oxidative stress, and vascularization was quantified using ELISA. Gene expression changes were evaluated using microarray assays. Statistical significance was determined via ANOVA with Tukey’s post hoc test (p < 0.05).

Key Findings

• Biomolecular Identification: LC/MS confirmed the presence of hispolon, dihydrozingerone, and arginine in the blend, key antioxidants from mushroom and root sources.

• Enhanced Antioxidant Defense:Phellinus linteus increased Cytoglobin (CYGB) expression by 28% and Oxidative Stress Response Kinase-1 (OXSR1) by 68%.

• Improved Vascular Health:Angelica polymorpha sinensis decreased VEGFA expression by 25%, suggesting reduced capillary leakage.Phellinus linteus increased NINJ1 expression by 62%, potentially supporting vascular stability and angiogenesis.

• Skin Barrier & Fatty Pad Support:LCE3B, essential for skin integrity, was upregulated by 100% in response to the mushroom extract.

• Stimulation of ECM Proteins:The root extract upregulated EGFR expression by 20%, indicating support for epidermal regeneration.

• Fibrillin and Collagen Regulation:The extracts stimulated genes critical for dermal matrix stability, potentially reducing sagging and puffiness.

This study demonstrates the novel integration of traditional medicine into modern skincare through the combined use of Phellinus linteus and Angelica polymorpha sinensis extracts. Their synergistic impact on antioxidant defense, vascular integrity, extracellular matrix repair, and skin barrier enhancement points to their promise as non-invasive alternatives for treating periorbital aging. The research is notable for linking in vitro biomolecular activity with cosmetic potential, and it sets the stage for forthcoming clinical evaluations. With continued validation, ANGEL-EYE EFX® could become a transformative ingredient in anti-aging eye care formulations.

Link to the study: https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/12/3/95