The cosmetic industry constantly balances innovation with the pressing need for validated safety. While commercial excitement surrounds new raw materials, scientific scrutiny often lags behind, especially when it comes to safety claims. Animal-derived ingredients like PDRN raise concerns around ethics, sustainability, and regulatory compliance—particularly for vegan consumers. In contrast, plant-derived materials (PDMs) are gaining momentum as ethically sound, sustainable, and biocompatible alternatives. This study addresses the lack of academic validation around PDMs by evaluating their biological safety for topical use, thereby supporting more informed and ethical product development.
Methods
Fifty PDMs—including botanical extracts, exosomes, and plant-derived PDRNs—were assessed through in vitro tests using human keratinocytes for cell viability, wound healing, and immunocytochemistry. ImageJ was used to quantify cell migration. To evaluate clinical safety, human skin irritation tests were performed on 30 healthy adult participants aged 20–59. Macroscopic assessments were conducted according to the ICDRG criteria to detect visible irritation and reactions.
Key Findings
• Confirmed Safety: All 50 samples were non-toxic in vitro and safe for human skin, with no clinically significant irritation.
• Enhanced Healing: Samples 38 (Houttuynia cordata), 42 (Morinda citrifolia), 41 (Melaleuca alternifolia), and 43 (Narcissus tazetta) notably improved wound healing.
• Skin Barrier Support: Most samples increased filaggrin expression, supporting skin barrier integrity—except Sample 35 (Centella asiatica).
• Minimal Irritation: A few samples caused transient, minor irritation, but all resolved spontaneously and fell within the “No Irritation” range.
This study marks a meaningful step toward science-backed, ethical cosmetic innovation. It provides rare academic validation for PDMs—materials often only discussed in patents or commercial reports—demonstrating their potential as safe, functional cosmetic ingredients. Plant-based PDRNs processed via vegan-compatible methods present a compelling alternative to animal-derived actives. As regulatory pressures for safety documentation intensify, this research offers a foundational platform for the ethical sourcing and trade of cosmetic raw materials. Future studies must expand this dataset, but the path toward sustainable, scientifically sound, plant-based cosmetics is now clearer than ever.
Link to the study: https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/12/4/153
