“The Problem with ‘More Is Better’ in Topicals”

Why layering multiple actives can disrupt the skin barrier and how Cymbiotics offers a smarter, science-backed alternative.

In a world of 10-step routines and multi-active formulations, the idea of “more is better” dominates conversations around topical care. But is it effective or even safe? In dermal science, it’s becoming increasingly clear: overloading the skin with actives doesn’t necessarily yield better outcomes. In fact, it can compromise the very structure that makes topical therapy effective the skin barrier.

The Skin Barrier: Not Just a Surface

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, isn’t a passive film. It plays a central role in regulating moisture, filtering substances, and preventing irritation. But this barrier has limits and excessive topical input can strain it.

When multiple actives are layered especially without regard for compatibility or delivery efficiency it can lead to:

  • Elevated transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
  • Disrupted lipid lamellae
  • Local inflammation or sensitivity
  • Reduced barrier resilience over time

More Isn’t Always Bioavailable

The skin is highly selective. Even if a formulation contains multiple “hero” actives, their molecular size, solubility, and carrier systems determine whether they actually reach viable epidermis. The 500 Dalton Rule suggests that molecules larger than 500 Daltons rarely penetrate intact skin.

As a result, unoptimized multi-active topicals often:

  • Sit on the surface without effect
  • Cause irritation without benefit
  • Compete for penetration pathways

This makes actives inefficient at best and counterproductive at worst.

The Cymbiotics Approach: Smart Delivery, Not Excess

Cymbiotics Biopharma designs topicals that prioritize delivery science over ingredient stacking. Our platforms focus on precision, bioavailability, and barrier integrity making every molecule count.

Cetosomes™

Self-assembling nanoparticles (50–850 nm) made from cetylated lipid components, designed to:

  • Stabilize actives
  • Facilitate deeper penetration
  • Avoid barrier disruption

FADD™ (Fast Acting Dermal Delivery)

Built on a CFEP complex (Cetylated Fatty Ester Penetrant) with polar solvent partners, FADD™ enables:

  • Dermal absorption
  • Improved ingredient distribution
  • Compatibility with skin barrier

Both systems are developed to achieve efficacy, establising the need for smart formulations while delivering clinical-level performance.

Efficiency Over Excess in Topicals

The future of topical therapy lies not in layering more but in delivering smarter. Cymbiotics’ innovation-driven platforms challenge the “more is better” myth, showing that targeted, bioavailable actives are essential than multi-active overloads. Necessary actives. Better penetration. Stronger barrier outcomes.

References:    

  1. United States Patent – Transdermal delivery of medicaments with combinations of cetylated fatty ester penetrant complexes   

           Patent No: US 8,394,759 B2   

           Link: https://patents.google.com/patent/US8394759B2   

  1. United States Patent – Topical dermal delivery compositions using self-assembling nanoparticles with cetylated components   

          Patent No: US 9,084,818 B2   

         Link: https://patents.google.com/patent/US9084818B2 

  1. “Bos JD, Meinardi MM. The 500 Dalton rule for the skin penetration of chemical compounds and drugs”– Bos JD, Meinardi MM, Experimental Dermatology, 2000. 
  1. International guidelines for the in vivo assessment of skin properties: Part 2. Transepidermal water loss and skin hydration” – du Plessis J et al., Skin Research and Technology, 2013. 
  1. “Tolerance profile of retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid under maximized clinical conditions” – Saint-Léger D et al., Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1995. 
  1. “Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety” – Mukherjee S et al., Clinical Interventions in Aging, 2006.