The increasing demand for natural products in the cosmetic industry has led to a surge in research on plant-based extracts with bioactive properties. Cissampelos pareira (C. pareira), a plant traditionally used for its medicinal properties, has emerged as a promising source of such bioactive compounds. Specifically, researchers focused on the potential of pectin extracted from C. pareira leaves (PCP) as a novel ingredient in skincare formulations, aiming to address the demand for natural moisturizers and anti-aging agents. Pectin, a polysaccharide known for its water-absorbing and gelling properties, was explored for its capacity to improve skin hydration and elasticity. The novelty lies in investigating C. pareira as a source of pectin for cosmetic applications, as there is currently no published research on this particular application.
Methods
This study involved extracting pectin from C. pareira leaves using a modified method involving ethanol pre-washing, followed by heating in acidified water, precipitation with ethanol, and drying. The extracted pectin underwent chemical characterization using FT-IR spectroscopy and analysis of methoxy content, degree of esterification, and galacturonic acid. Furthermore, the physicochemical properties such as pH, viscosity, total polysaccharide content, solubility, swelling capacity, hydration, and oil absorption capacities were determined, alongside antioxidant activity using DPPH assay. The safety and efficacy were evaluated through in vitro cell culture and an 8-week clinical study with human volunteers.
Key Findings
• Pectin Extraction and Characterization:
◦ The optimal extraction time for PCP was determined to be 45 minutes, yielding 18.07% pectin.
◦ FT-IR spectroscopy confirmed the presence of characteristic pectin structures.
◦ PCP was identified as low methoxy pectin (LMP) with a methoxy content below 8.16% and a degree of esterification (DE) below 50%.
◦ PCP exhibited high galacturonic acid content of 41.74%.
• Physicochemical Properties:
◦ PCP had a pH of 3.74 and a viscosity of 614 cps.
◦ The total polysaccharide content of PCP was found to be 20.44 µg glucose/µg extract.
◦ PCP displayed a high solubility in water (99.93%) and a swelling capacity of 0.40 mL/g.
◦ PCP showed a water absorption capacity of 9.79 mL/g.
◦ The extract did not demonstrate any oil absorption capacity.
• Antioxidant Activity:
◦ PCP demonstrated antioxidant activity with an IC50 value of 0.72 mg/mL, indicating its ability to scavenge free radicals.
◦ While not as potent as ascorbic acid, PCP’s antioxidant capacity was comparable to other natural sources.
• Cellular Studies:
◦ PCP was found to be non-cytotoxic at concentrations of 0.5 mg/mL and 1 mg/mL.
◦ PCP showed a protective effect against hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress in NIH/3T3 fibroblasts, indicating its cellular antioxidant activity.
• Stability Testing:
◦ PCP maintained physical appearance and total polysaccharide content after heating-cooling cycles, but with changes in pH, viscosity and antioxidant capacity.
◦ Serum products containing PCP remained stable after centrifugation and heating-cooling cycles.
• Clinical Evaluation:
◦ PCP was found to be safe for use in human skin, with no irritation observed during patch tests.
◦ Serum formulations containing 0.5% and 1.0% PCP significantly improved skin hydration and elasticity compared to a placebo in an 8-week clinical trial.
◦ While skin smoothness, scaliness, and wrinkling showed some improvement, the anti-aging results were not statistically significant.
The findings support the use of PCP as a viable option in both pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications, especially as a hydrating agent. The future implications of this research involve the further exploration of PCP in a variety of cosmeceutical applications, especially for long term anti-aging studies. It also suggests that further research into optimizing the extraction, formulation, and delivery of PCP to maximize its benefits in skincare is warranted, and that further research could potentially lead to a wider range of applications for this plant-based pectin.
Link to the study: https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/12/1/5
