The modern consumer of personal care products increasingly seeks solutions that transcend basic hygiene and aesthetics, with a strong focus on reducing and eliminating the visible signs of aging. This demand has fueled the growth of the cosmeceutical industry, which develops products positioned between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, aiming to improve skin appearance, texture, and function through physiological pathways. The pursuit of more youthful skin has led to the exploration of various bioactive agents, and this review article in Polymers specifically examines the current approaches in cosmeceuticals that utilize peptides, biotic ingredients, and marine-based compounds. These categories have gained popularity due to peptides’ well-documented anti-aging effects on collagen synthesis and skin barrier, the potential of biotics in maintaining a healthy skin microflora for improved barrier function, and the consumer interest in natural and eco-friendly marine resources offering diverse bioactive properties and biopolymers. This review considers the scientific studies and commercially available products using these ingredients, highlighting their benefits and the challenges in their formulation.
Key Findings
•Peptides in Cosmeceuticals:
◦Peptides are frequently used for anti-aging due to their effects on enhancing fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis, contributing to skin barrier function, and reducing skin pigmentation.
◦Different types of peptides, including signal, carrier, neurotransmitter-inhibitory, and enzyme-inhibitory peptides, offer various anti-aging benefits. Examples include Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 for stimulating ECM proteins, Copper Tripeptide-1 for promoting collagen and elastin production, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline®) for reducing muscle contraction, and rice peptides for inhibiting MMP activity.
◦Clinical studies have verified the efficacy of peptides in reducing wrinkles, improving skin elasticity, and enhancing skin appearance.
◦Challenges in using peptides involve ensuring their stability and bioavailability, often requiring penetration enhancement strategies like chemical and physical methods, and advanced formulations.
•Cosmeceuticals with Biotic Ingredients:
◦Biotics (probiotics, postbiotics, and prebiotics) are increasingly used to improve skin barrier function by maintaining the balance of the skin microflora.
◦Probiotics (live microorganisms) from genera like Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium show potential for skin whitening, moisturizing, anti-aging, and anti-wrinkle effects.
◦Postbiotics (inanimate microorganisms or their components) offer similar benefits with improved stability and shelf life. Examples include Streptococcus thermophilus lysate for enhancing ceramide levels.
◦Prebiotics (substrates for beneficial microorganisms) like fructooligosaccharides help maintain a healthy skin microbiome.
◦Challenges with probiotics include maintaining viability, compatibility with preservatives, and the lack of clear regulatory guidelines. Postbiotics are suggested as a more stable alternative.
•Marine Cosmeceuticals:
◦Marine-derived substances, driven by consumer interest in natural products and ocean biodiversity, are highly significant for the cosmetic industry.
◦Marine polysaccharides are valuable biopolymers for gel formation.
◦Various marine sources, including seawater, seaweeds (alginate, fucoxanthin, MAAs), marine microorganisms (exopolysaccharides, extremolytes like ectoine), and marine animals (collagen, chitin, chitosan), offer diverse cosmetic benefits like antioxidant, anti-aging, moisturizing, and UV protection.
◦Challenges in this area include the sustainability of marine resources, difficulties in extraction and standardization, potential for contamination (e.g., heavy metals, pollutants), and the need for robust safety and efficacy evaluations.
The novelty of this research lies in its holistic approach, bringing together these three prominent categories of bioactive ingredients and discussing their individual benefits and the synergistic potential for enhancing anti-aging effects. By systematically outlining the scientific evidence and simultaneously addressing the practical challenges in formulation, stability, and sourcing, the review highlights crucial areas for future research. The future implications of this work suggest a direction towards developing more effective, natural, and multi-functional cosmeceuticals that leverage the combined power of peptides, biotics, and marine ingredients to meet the growing consumer demand for advanced and sustainable anti-aging solutions.
Link to the study: https://www.mdpi.com/2073-4360/17/6/798
