Skincare science is shifting toward holistic well-being and natural functionality. Consumers increasingly prefer plant-based formulations that support both aesthetics and skin health. Officinal plants those with a history of medicinal use are rich in bioactive compounds like polyphenols and flavonoids, offering antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and regenerative effects. This review explores the dermocosmetic relevance of such plants and their potential as safe, multifunctional skincare ingredients that align with modern demands.
Key Findings
Anti-Inflammatory Effects
- Harpagophytum procumbens inhibited COX-2 and iNOS, showing antimicrobial effects as a full extract.
- Zingiber officinale (ginger) reduced UVB-induced inflammation and promoted healing via gingerol.
- Kigelia africana exhibited anti-aging and wound-healing effects without cytotoxicity.
- Mentha piperita reduced cytokines and oxidative stress.
- Vitis vinifera leaf extracts blocked TNF-α and NF-κB pathways.
Antioxidant & Photoprotective Effects
- Solanum lycopersicum (tomato) protected against photoaging and pigmentation.
- Glycine soja (soybean) stimulated HA synthesis and blocked UV-induced DNA damage.
- Camellia sinensis (green tea) offered photoprotection through catechins.
- Lycium barbarum (goji berry) supported barrier repair via Nrf2 and SIRT3 activation.
- Aesculus hippocastanum (horse chestnut) had strong antioxidant capacity.
Antimicrobial Activity
- Mentha piperita was effective against S. aureus and C. albicans.
- Eucalyptus globulus showed broad antibacterial and antioxidant action.
- Drosera ramentacea and Prunus dulcis (almond skin) inhibited acne and viral pathogens.
- Vitis vinifera was effective against both bacterial and fungal skin microbes.
Venotonic Benefits
- Aesculus hippocastanum reduced wrinkles and improved skin tone.
- Ruscus aculeatus improved circulation and immune peptide expression.
Skin Brightening Properties
- Camellia sinensis and Vitis vinifera extracts inhibited tyrosinase, reducing pigmentation.
- Panax ginseng modulated melanogenesis through ginsenosides.
Regenerative Effects
- Drosera ramentacea and Kigelia africana accelerated healing and collagen reinforcement.
- Glycine soja boosted HA, collagen, and elastin synthesis, enhancing firmness and elasticity.
Officinal plants present a scientifically supported opportunity for natural, multifunctional skincare innovation. Many of these plants offer antioxidant defense, inflammation control, pigment correction, and antimicrobial protection yet only Mentha piperita holds formal dermatological recognition in the EU. Future work must focus on clinical trials, standardized extraction methods, and real-world efficacy validation. These findings bridge cosmetic beauty with therapeutic care, opening new possibilities in dermatology-inspired skincare.
Link to the study: https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/12/4/140
