With increasing consumer demand for natural, eco-friendly skincare, repurposing agricultural by-products has gained attention. Plum plants (Prunus spp.), though economically important, leave behind discarded leaves that contribute to environmental waste. Rich in phenolic and flavonoid compounds like rutin, these leaves show strong antioxidant potential. This study explores their potential in topical cosmetics, aligning with sustainability and circular economy principles by converting agricultural waste into high-value ingredients.
Methods
Researchers evaluated three Southeast Asian Prunus species—Prunus domestica (EL), Prunus salicina (JL), and Prunus cerasifera (CL)—for phenolic and tannin content, antioxidant activity, and anti-lipid peroxidation effects. The most promising extract (CL) was formulated into a 0.3% topical cream. This formulation underwent stability testing, in vitro skin permeation studies with Strat-M™ membranes, and a double-blind, semi-open patch test in human volunteers to assess safety and skin compatibility.
Key Findings
- Prunus cerasifera (CL) extract had the highest condensed tannin content and strongest antioxidant (IC₅₀ = 22.1 µg/mL) and anti-lipid peroxidation (62.3%) activity.
- The 0.3% CL extract cream (CCL) showed excellent physical stability for two months at room temperature.
- Under thermal stress, CCL maintained over 74.5% antioxidant activity.
- Skin permeation tests showed 5.7-fold higher rutin retention in the membrane vs. control.
- No rutin reached the receptor chamber, supporting surface-level delivery.
- In human testing, the CCL formulation was safe with minimal irritation (PDII = 0.14).
This study demonstrates the cosmetic potential of Prunus cerasifera leaf extract as a sustainable antioxidant. The formulation proved stable, safe, and effective in enhancing skin delivery of rutin without systemic absorption. These findings encourage further research into agricultural waste valorization and position Prunus leaf extract as a viable ingredient in natural skincare. It also supports innovation in circular economy-based product development while meeting growing consumer demand for sustainable beauty solutions.
Link to the study: https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/12/4/146
