Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 (part of the vitamin B3 family which includes nicotinic acid and nicotinamide riboside) that is not endogenously synthesized by the body. Once absorbed, these forms are converted into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD), a coenzyme vital for cellular metabolism. Niacinamide is a compelling solution for various skin concerns due to its multifaceted beneficial properties. It promotes the synthesis of ceramides, fatty acids, and structural proteins within the stratum corneum, thereby contributing to the restoration of the hydrolipid barrier and protecting the skin from external agents. Beyond barrier repair, niacinamide is known for its ability to reduce TEWL, maintain skin hydration, and offer antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective benefits. It also supports the repair of damaged cellular DNA and RNA, mitigates oxidative stress, and is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanosome transfer. Given this broad spectrum of action, a niacinamide-containing cream was hypothesized to provide superior skin hydration and improve overall skin tone and condition compared to usual skincare or a ceramide-containing preparation.
Methods
Young adult women were recruited and assigned to one of three groups: continuing their usual skincare routine, applying a commercial ceramide-containing cream, or applying a commercial niacinamide-containing cream. The study spanned three weeks, during which participants applied the preparations twice daily in their home settings, without knowledge of the cream type to minimize bias. Skin hydration was objectively measured using corneometry, while changes in skin appearance were documented through standardized photography and subjective self-assessments by the participants.
Key Findings
• The niacinamide-containing cream significantly improved skin hydration (32.15 ± 12.61 vs. 39.09 ± 14.12; p = 0.0365).
• The niacinamide-containing cream effectively reduced skin discoloration, with 81.2% of participants reporting improvement (p = 0.0407).
• The ceramide-containing cream was found to be the most effective in reducing redness, with 68.8% of participants noting visible improvement (p = 0.0017).
• No significant changes were observed in skin texture or the appearance of skin lesions across any of the tested groups.
• Overall, the tested cosmetics were well tolerated, and no allergic reactions were reported by participants.
• Despite beneficial effects on erythema and discoloration, the ceramide-containing cream did not lead to an increase in skin hydration as measured by corneometry. However, the cream combining niacinamide with ceramides (used in the niacinamide group) resulted in significantly greater benefits, including increased skin hydration and overall improved skin tone.
For future implications, the researchers recommend that subsequent studies include additional objective measurements and involve larger, more diverse participant populations to enhance the reliability and generalizability of the results. The study’s short three-week duration suggests its pilot nature, indicating that longer and more rigorous investigations, ideally covering at least two full epidermal turnover cycles (4–6 weeks), would be necessary for a comprehensive evaluation of skin tone and depigmenting effects. Furthermore, addressing limitations such as the undisclosed exact concentrations of active ingredients in commercial products and incorporating detailed medical diagnostics would further strengthen future research.
Link to the study: https://www.mdpi.com/2076-3417/15/17/9729
