Sensitive skin is a widespread global condition, affecting 30%–50% of the population, and is particularly prevalent in Asian skin, which often exhibits higher transepidermal water loss and reactivity compared to Caucasian skin. While topical retinoids are the clinical standard for treating photoaging, they frequently cause side effects such as erythema, stinging, and peeling, which are often intolerable for those with sensitive skin. To address this, researchers investigated a serum combining supramolecular Bakuchiol, a plant-derived retinol alternative with similar anti-aging gene expression but higher tolerability, and Terminalia chebula extract, known for its potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits. This formulation utilizes supramolecular technology to optimize the delivery of actives, enhancing permeability while minimizing irritation.
Methods
A double-blind clinical study enrolled 34 Chinese subjects with sensitive skin who applied the test serum twice daily for 28 days. Evaluations were conducted at baseline, 8 hours, 14 days, and 28 days using objective instrumental measurements for barrier function, sensitivity, and aging. Sensitivity was assessed via the lactic acid sting test (LAST), while barrier function was measured through transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Anti-aging efficacy was quantified using VISIA imaging for wrinkles and a Cutometer for skin elasticity and firmness. All participants underwent rigorous safety assessments and dermatologist evaluations to monitor for potential adverse reactions.
Key Findings
• Skin Barrier Repair: Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) significantly reduced by 24.90% after 28 days, indicating improved barrier integrity.
• Sensitivity Reduction: Skin tolerance improved as demonstrated by a 28.09% reduction in LAST scores and a 31.81% decrease in redness.
• Anti-Aging Efficacy: Clinical data showed a 16.06% reduction in wrinkle area and a 16.71% decrease in SEw (skin wrinkle) values.
• Improved Biomechanics: Skin elasticity (R2) increased by 23.04% and firmness (F4) improved by 25.60% by the end of the study.
• Rapid Results and Safety: Significant improvements in redness and barrier function were observed as early as 8 hours after application, with no reported adverse events.
The novelty of this research lies in the integration of supramolecular delivery systems, which optimize active ingredient permeability while maintaining a high safety profile for sensitive populations. By combining Bakuchiol’s anti-aging potency with the anti-inflammatory properties of Terminalia chebula, the study introduces a synergistic approach to managing “inflammaging”. These findings suggest a significant future shift toward “gentle-aging” paradigms, providing an effective clinical alternative for individuals who require anti-aging results without compromising a fragile skin barrier.
Link to the study: https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/hsr2.71629
A serum containing Terminalia chebula extract and Supramolecular Bakuchiol reduces facial redness. A facial photo of a 59-year-old Chinese woman.